How To Adjust A Harley Clutch Written By Caldwell Guttend1964 Monday, January 9, 2023 Add Comment Edit I am a new Harley owner, I've tried to adjust the clutch several times post-obit the instructions from manuals and from videos, just every fourth dimension it feels expert at first but once the bike warms up fully I accept to hold the front end restriction at stops. The final time plainly I went fashion as well far because when it was warmed upward and I shifted to start from neutral at a lite it died on me. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Richard Yeah, I accept and I have followed these exactly the main problem is to find out if it adjusted correctly or not you have to ride information technology, which warms it up, then you accept to wait several hours for it to absurd off when y'all find out information technology is incorrect during the test ride. Made any upgrades to your bike? All info helps. When you adjust slack in cable is front wheel straight or turned? Make sure it is directly it can brand a deviation. Bodeen Well-Known Fellow member Staff Fellow member Moderator Correspondent Aligning done on a rock cold bike makes all the deviation. Handlebars and braided clutch cable are simply upgrades I know of. Ibelieve the front end wheel has always been turned to allow easier admission to the cable adjuster, I volition try it with bars straight adjacent time. I have e'er done information technology on cold engine, the problem is it feels cracking right afterwards when I go for the test ride. But afetr it warms upwardly it starts creeping when clutch is fully disengaged. The concluding fourth dimension I was at a light in neutral and squeezed the clutch to put information technology in first and the bicycle died. Last edited by a moderator: Oct seven, 2012 Here's a question for those in the know. When adjusting the clutch you plough the adjuster until you feel the slightest resistance and then dorsum it off half to three quarter turns before tightening lock nut. Hither is my question. If the clutch lever is fully squeezed just the clutch is notwithstanding engaged does this mean you backed information technology off too much or not plenty? In your case , the pressure level spiral adjustment was backed off besides much. Yous tin can mal-accommodate both adjustments and wind up with different results. My answer is based on only the force per unit area spiral being mal-adjusted. Effort this method i use. Harley Davidson Community IF your cablevision is Not pulling far enough and not changed out from stock pull, the bradded cable sheath Might be the trouble; assuasive as well much play and loosing the total pull of the cablevision running thru it. Brand sure the lever is @ ane/16 play (tight) to see IF that helps. You just want to make sure there is enough play and so the clutch balls (throw-out bearings) don't run engaged constantly... signed....BUBBIE Clutch adjustment is fairly uncomplicated once y'all go the hang of information technology. here is how I take been doing it for years with excellent results, some may disagree merely it has been working fine with no return complaints. 1). COMPLETELY loosen the cable adjuster 2). Loosen the jamnut on the clutch adjuster a good bit, a couple of turns at least. when you practice this y'all desire to pay close attending to how it feels. If it feels chunky or sticky so take it completely out clean information technology up and become it turning freely both in the plate it screws into as well as the jamnut turning freely along the entire length of the adjuster. iii). Thread the adjuster dorsum into the plate in the center of the clutch assembly iii or 4 threads then stop. Now push and pull on the adjuster and make note of how the plate moves under the snap ring that holds it in place. iv). Continue to thread the adjuster into its center plate untill the start point of contact with the push rod, or zero lash. Cross bank check your work by backing the adjuster out merely a bit then dorsum in, yous will be able to determine nada lash by observing when center plate but makes contact with the snap ring that holds it in place.Confirm by attempting to pull and button on the adjuster as you did in stride 3. At that place should be no motion at this point, but likewise no noticeable pressure on the adjuster. 5). When you are positive you are exactly at cypher lash, no more than no less, continue to turn the adjuster in 1/eight to 1/4 of a turn. This volition set the preload on the force per unit area plate. i/8 plow max for new clutch plates 1/4 turn max for rework or clutch plates with a agglomeration of miles on them. 6). wipe the adjuster bolt with a rag wetted with some carb cleaner to go all the oil off it, put 1 drop of blue locktite on the adjuster where the jamnut is going to sit over it, run the jamnut downwardly and torque it to aprx 1 grunt (thats a technical term). 7). Pull the clutch lever all the style to the hand grip. remove the slack from the cable adjuster, watching the clutch lever move as you practice this. As you go close to the lever being in its fully extended position, keep removeing slack from the cable adjuster, use a dime as a gauge between the clutch lever and the clutch perch to decide the correct freeplay in the lever, when a dime will merely barely stay in place on its own due to cablevision pressure Cease. Operate the clutch lever while observing the clutch adjuster. As you lot squeeze the lever the pull should be polish and even, and the adjuster will visually motion in and out slightly. viii). Secure the jamnuts on the cable adjuster. Put everything back together make clean upwards wash your hands and give it a test run. As you mentioned the motor/clutch MUST be stonecold, If you got it right neutral will exist very easy to find, and the bike wont lurch or creep when you shift from neutral to first. You will find that this procedure is made much easier if you use a T-handle allen wrench for turning the clutch adjuster, as this allows you lot to meliorate gauge the i/viii to 1/4 turn when setting the preload on the pressure plate. You tin can also make a jamnut wrench by having a four or 5 inch piece of 5/16 round bar welded on to the base of a deep well socket. This allows yous to use the T handle allen wrench to precisely hold the adjuster through the square pigsty where the ratchet would normally go into the socket while you lot apply that disquisitional 1 grunt of forcefulness to the jamnut. Keeping the adjuster from moving while setting the jamnut is absolutely critical, as the difference betwixt a properly adjusted clutch and a maladjusted i is infintismal. If at that place is no lurching or creeping when shifting from nuetral to first you are set to road test. When you get out on the route get rolling slowly (about 25 mph in tertiary gear) so briskly coil on the throttle. If the motor bogs a flake before cleanly accelerating yous are proficient. If the motor revs faster than the bicycle accelerates and so the clutch is slipping and a readjustment is in gild. So in review if the wheel is creeping with the clutch lever against the grip, and neutral is difficult to find, or offset gear is difficult to go at a stand however, then at that place is NOT plenty preload on the pressure level plate. If the clutch slips nether brisk acceleration then there is Too MUCH preload on the force per unit area plate. DO NOT be tempted to brand even slight adjustments with the cablevision adjuster, that is there solely to control the amount of preload on the throw out bearing, which y'all volition certainly tear to shreds in brusque order if there is continual pressure on it. Sorry for being and so long winded, hope it helps Source: https://www.hdtimeline.com/threads/clutch-adjustment-problems.50433/ Share this post
I am a new Harley owner, I've tried to adjust the clutch several times post-obit the instructions from manuals and from videos, just every fourth dimension it feels expert at first but once the bike warms up fully I accept to hold the front end restriction at stops. The final time plainly I went fashion as well far because when it was warmed upward and I shifted to start from neutral at a lite it died on me. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Richard
Yeah, I accept and I have followed these exactly the main problem is to find out if it adjusted correctly or not you have to ride information technology, which warms it up, then you accept to wait several hours for it to absurd off when y'all find out information technology is incorrect during the test ride.
When you adjust slack in cable is front wheel straight or turned? Make sure it is directly it can brand a deviation.
Handlebars and braided clutch cable are simply upgrades I know of. Ibelieve the front end wheel has always been turned to allow easier admission to the cable adjuster, I volition try it with bars straight adjacent time. I have e'er done information technology on cold engine, the problem is it feels cracking right afterwards when I go for the test ride. But afetr it warms upwardly it starts creeping when clutch is fully disengaged. The concluding fourth dimension I was at a light in neutral and squeezed the clutch to put information technology in first and the bicycle died.
Here's a question for those in the know. When adjusting the clutch you plough the adjuster until you feel the slightest resistance and then dorsum it off half to three quarter turns before tightening lock nut. Hither is my question. If the clutch lever is fully squeezed just the clutch is notwithstanding engaged does this mean you backed information technology off too much or not plenty?
In your case , the pressure level spiral adjustment was backed off besides much. Yous tin can mal-accommodate both adjustments and wind up with different results. My answer is based on only the force per unit area spiral being mal-adjusted.
Effort this method i use. Harley Davidson Community IF your cablevision is Not pulling far enough and not changed out from stock pull, the bradded cable sheath Might be the trouble; assuasive as well much play and loosing the total pull of the cablevision running thru it. Brand sure the lever is @ ane/16 play (tight) to see IF that helps. You just want to make sure there is enough play and so the clutch balls (throw-out bearings) don't run engaged constantly... signed....BUBBIE
Clutch adjustment is fairly uncomplicated once y'all go the hang of information technology. here is how I take been doing it for years with excellent results, some may disagree merely it has been working fine with no return complaints. 1). COMPLETELY loosen the cable adjuster 2). Loosen the jamnut on the clutch adjuster a good bit, a couple of turns at least. when you practice this y'all desire to pay close attending to how it feels. If it feels chunky or sticky so take it completely out clean information technology up and become it turning freely both in the plate it screws into as well as the jamnut turning freely along the entire length of the adjuster. iii). Thread the adjuster dorsum into the plate in the center of the clutch assembly iii or 4 threads then stop. Now push and pull on the adjuster and make note of how the plate moves under the snap ring that holds it in place. iv). Continue to thread the adjuster into its center plate untill the start point of contact with the push rod, or zero lash. Cross bank check your work by backing the adjuster out merely a bit then dorsum in, yous will be able to determine nada lash by observing when center plate but makes contact with the snap ring that holds it in place.Confirm by attempting to pull and button on the adjuster as you did in stride 3. At that place should be no motion at this point, but likewise no noticeable pressure on the adjuster. 5). When you are positive you are exactly at cypher lash, no more than no less, continue to turn the adjuster in 1/eight to 1/4 of a turn. This volition set the preload on the force per unit area plate. i/8 plow max for new clutch plates 1/4 turn max for rework or clutch plates with a agglomeration of miles on them. 6). wipe the adjuster bolt with a rag wetted with some carb cleaner to go all the oil off it, put 1 drop of blue locktite on the adjuster where the jamnut is going to sit over it, run the jamnut downwardly and torque it to aprx 1 grunt (thats a technical term). 7). Pull the clutch lever all the style to the hand grip. remove the slack from the cable adjuster, watching the clutch lever move as you practice this. As you go close to the lever being in its fully extended position, keep removeing slack from the cable adjuster, use a dime as a gauge between the clutch lever and the clutch perch to decide the correct freeplay in the lever, when a dime will merely barely stay in place on its own due to cablevision pressure Cease. Operate the clutch lever while observing the clutch adjuster. As you lot squeeze the lever the pull should be polish and even, and the adjuster will visually motion in and out slightly. viii). Secure the jamnuts on the cable adjuster. Put everything back together make clean upwards wash your hands and give it a test run. As you mentioned the motor/clutch MUST be stonecold, If you got it right neutral will exist very easy to find, and the bike wont lurch or creep when you shift from neutral to first. You will find that this procedure is made much easier if you use a T-handle allen wrench for turning the clutch adjuster, as this allows you lot to meliorate gauge the i/viii to 1/4 turn when setting the preload on the pressure plate. You tin can also make a jamnut wrench by having a four or 5 inch piece of 5/16 round bar welded on to the base of a deep well socket. This allows yous to use the T handle allen wrench to precisely hold the adjuster through the square pigsty where the ratchet would normally go into the socket while you lot apply that disquisitional 1 grunt of forcefulness to the jamnut. Keeping the adjuster from moving while setting the jamnut is absolutely critical, as the difference betwixt a properly adjusted clutch and a maladjusted i is infintismal. If at that place is no lurching or creeping when shifting from nuetral to first you are set to road test. When you get out on the route get rolling slowly (about 25 mph in tertiary gear) so briskly coil on the throttle. If the motor bogs a flake before cleanly accelerating yous are proficient. If the motor revs faster than the bicycle accelerates and so the clutch is slipping and a readjustment is in gild. So in review if the wheel is creeping with the clutch lever against the grip, and neutral is difficult to find, or offset gear is difficult to go at a stand however, then at that place is NOT plenty preload on the pressure level plate. If the clutch slips nether brisk acceleration then there is Too MUCH preload on the force per unit area plate. DO NOT be tempted to brand even slight adjustments with the cablevision adjuster, that is there solely to control the amount of preload on the throw out bearing, which y'all volition certainly tear to shreds in brusque order if there is continual pressure on it. Sorry for being and so long winded, hope it helps
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